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Box 6

5/29/2015

21 Comments

 
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I've made many boxes like this one before. It's actually my second go at a box I made many years ago (see the box at right). I made that box in one night, using a Phi ruler to determine the box's height, width, and length. I like the width and length, but think it's too tall. I always wanted to go back and make it again, but shorter. That's what box 6 is. I should admit that I'm not positive that the two boxes have the same width and height. The only record I could find of the original box's dimensions was an approximation, so I guessed as best I could. (I gave the box to a family friend not long after I made it, so can't measure it.) I like the proportions of the new box much better.

The first box was made from English elm. So is this one. The difference in color between the two is amazing. I really like the color of the first box, but that board is long gone. I also like the English elm I used for this box, especially the random spots of wild grain, but it's not quite as nice. The top of the first box is solid wood. I think it's flame birch. (It came from a very old, but decrepit, table, so I don't know for sure.) The top of this one is plywood banded in cocobolo and then veneered with English brown oak. The lifts are cocobolo. The three woods complement each other very well, I think. And the darker oak works here because the box sides are a light brown. It would not have worked with the elm I used to make the previous box.

Box 6 wasn't hard to make, but it was tedious. Both the lids and the bottom involved veneering plywood. The banding on the top is mitered at the corners and getting those miters tight and clean was a slow, shaving at a time process. The bottom involved some tedious labor, too. First I veneered the bottom face. I then did the end banding. After that, it was the front and back. This way, when you look at the bottom from the front, you see what looks like a piece of solid wood. Last came the veneer for the top face. I wanted this to cover the banding, so that when you look at the inside of the box, you don't see any banding. (I should do a blog about box bottoms, right?.) The veneers on the lids are commercial, but think. Those on the bottom are shopsawn.

Alright, let's get to the random thoughts.

  1. One of the things I look for when choosing wood for box sides is tight, straight grain. I also look for anomalies in the grain to give the sides some individuality. With cherry, it's usually bits of pitch. With this English elm its some random, isolated curl or figure that makes the grain lines wave up and down. Very cool.
  2. The lifts illustrate a strong belief I have about pulls, handles, and lifts: Don't worry about getting them perfectly centered. If you look at the picture below on the left, you can see that they are a bit closer to the right side than the left side. You notice this in the end view, but not when looking from above. I can live with some imperfection in a box, as long as it's in the right place. I suspect others will disagree with me on this point. I would quote a particular line from The Holy Grail at this point (it pertains to doing something in a person's general direction), but I don't want to be rude.
  3. There's no milk paint. I just wanted to give it a break for a week. Don't worry. I've already made some more boxes with milk paint.
  4. I'm not sure what you'd store in this box, but I think it would do nicely as storage for some Longbottom Leaf or Old Toby. Personally, I don't partake of the stuff. I've heard it makes your feet hairy.

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21 Comments
Douglas Bowker link
5/30/2015 01:26:09 am

I just became aware of your 52/52 project this morning via Fine WW magazine and I love it. Your aesthetic is already on sure footing in my opinion, so it'll be great to see where this takes you!

I particularly appreciated your original post, the reasoning and purpose for starting. Anyone even semi-well read at this point is familiar with Outliers, and the 10,000 hours to be an expert concept, yet how often is it applied? And your point regarding the "learning" of good design is dead on. We definitely understand it regarding music, but when it comes to the visual arts, so often it gets lost. Even with trunk load of Talent, it's not going to happen without practice (lots of) and purpose.

In any case, you're off to a great start and I'll be sure to keep checking back in. I don't see a Subscribe button around here; am I missing it?

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Matt Kenney
5/30/2015 03:39:22 am

Thanks for reading, Douglas. To subscribe to the blog, use the RSS feed button on the right side of the page. You'll need to use a reader like feedly.com.

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Douglas Bowker
5/30/2015 06:04:48 am

Thanks!

Jerry Stark
6/3/2015 06:25:55 am

Nice box, even elegant, I would say.
The proportions and materials are spot on. You really sweated the details here and it shows.
Good stuff!

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Wade Holloway
6/3/2015 07:44:46 am

Would you mind posting a little more info on these boxes, like are these made with hidden splines in the corners or just glued. Sometimes it is obvious that you have reinforced the corners when the splines show. And I can't tell for sure but it looks like a double 45 degree tenon on the divider of this box. Thanks.

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Matt Kenney
6/3/2015 09:05:51 am

Wade,

There aren't any splines on this box. In fact, I almost never use splines. The boxes are so small that they don't need it. Also, the wood movement in a box miter puts little to no stress on the joint, so you don't have the same failure problems that you can with frame miters. Of course, the joint needs to be tight, and you need to glue it up well. I typically soak joints in glue size (50/50 water and yellow glue) before gluing them together.

Hope that helps.

Matt

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Wade Holloway
6/3/2015 10:21:07 am

Thanks for the info.

Mike
6/3/2015 05:44:48 pm

Can you explain what keeps the lids from sliding over the (off) center divider? It looks to me like the lids rest in a rabbet whose depth equals the height of the divider. This may not be right, however. Thanks a lot for the thoughts here.

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Matt Kenney
6/4/2015 01:04:35 am

Mike,

Thanks for reading the blog, and for the question. The divider creates two separate compartments in the box. In other words, it extends from the box bottom up to the top edge of the sides. It also has a rabbet on both faces. So, the lids sit in a rabbet in the divider as they do in rabbets on the sides. This prevents them from sliding over the divider. If I haven't done a good job explaining this, let me know and I'll give it another go.

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Mike
6/4/2015 07:08:28 am

Thanks a lot for the reply. I did not realize that the divider had two rabbets. Just out of curiosity, how thick is the divider compared to the thickness of the box pieces?

Eddie
6/4/2015 03:37:00 am

I struggle with mitered corners on my boxes. I just can't seem to dial in the exact 45 degree angles for the perfect fit. Is there a secret? I've made a lot of boxes (many from Doug Stowe's books) and have pretty much given up on using mitered corners. Mostly, I use finger joints or dovetails now.
By the way, there's no such word as "alright." There is a two-word phrase -- "all right" -- that you were probably thinking of.

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Matt Kenney
6/4/2015 04:39:54 am

I cut miters two ways. First, at the tablesaw. I also use a shooting board. I think you've given me two good topics for future blogs. In brief, I can say this. Accurate miters at the tablesaw start long before you turn on the saw. For example, when you tilt the blade, it must be parallel to the saw table. Also, the miter slot must be parallel to the blade. When you tilt the blade, use the head of a very good combo square to set it to 45 degrees. Your sled must be made accurately, too. All of this sounds like a lot to deal with, but if you handle each one in turn, then you'l be OK. All that said, perhaps I should do a blog about tablesaw miters and one about shooting board miters. I'll see if I can't fit them into the schedule soon.

As for "alright," are you telling me it ain't a word? Hmm. Several dictionaries I know disagree. It's also been used by some very good writers. One of the wonderful things about language is that it's so fluid, and things that ain't supposed to be words oddly become frequently used like them (and practice trumps theory in this regard). They even get widely accepted, although perhaps not by those who have trouble with change.

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Eddie
6/4/2015 08:44:27 am

I look forward to your blogs (what a word!) about miters. I'm thinking that the blade not being square to the saw table could definitely be the problem. It's the only thing I haven't spent hours fiddling with. I think my sled is as good as I can get it. And I swear I measure twice (more actually) and cut once.
I've discovered that if the miters are off even a little, no amount of squeezing will square up the corners of my box. Maybe I need to find a good wood stretcher.
And although my eighth-grade grammar teacher would wash your mouth out (metaphorically) for "alright," and recommend you find a better dictionary, she would certainly agree with your point about language -- in particular, American English -- being fluid. Me? I'm still fighting a losing battle against "hopefully."

Alex Gauthier link
1/6/2019 10:01:27 pm

Hey, love the book. It's well timed as I'm working on my own series of box projects and I'm trying to get good at cutting miters for that purpose. No shooting board so I'm doing it on the TS. That post about your sled would be really sweet if you can cram it into your schedule somewhere. Until then, I'm trying to piece it together from what I can see on FWW and the brief blurb in your book. Love the book, by the by.

Jerry Stark
6/4/2015 05:00:16 am

Matt,

FWIW --

As a long-time student of language, my interest is always piqued when points of grammar and usage are raised.

With respect to "all right" and "alright", it is often argued that the latter is a derivative, even slang, version of the first. Yet, this appears not to be the case.

"Alright" long predates the more modern usage of "all right". The former is directly taken from the Old English "eallriht"-- meaning right or acceptable, just as it now does.

While it is true that language pundits make arguments for or against one or the other usage, the historical record is pretty clear about which word has historical precedent. (Oxford English Dictionary)

I apologize for falling back into professor mode -- bad habit.

More importantly, back to the great boxes...once more into the breach dear friends, once more.

Later,
Jerry Stark

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Billy Davis
6/4/2015 11:26:41 am

Once again, elegance portrayed by simplicity. I like the idea of revisiting older designs for tweaking purposes. I think something really interesting can develop.

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Matthew Kenney
6/5/2015 11:47:29 pm

The divider is 1/4 in. thick, with 1/16 in. Rabbets on each side. So, the center strip that's as tall as the sides is 1/8 in. thick. The sides are 1/4 in. thick, too, with 1/16 in. rabbets.

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Howard Trott
12/19/2015 06:26:50 pm

Hey Matthew
I like this box. Its simple but effective. Have you done the blog about mitres and the shooting board yet? Can you post a link to both articles if you have. Thanks.

PS Great series. It would not be hard to make 52 of the same boxes but 52 different ones? That's a mean feat!

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Matt Kenney
12/21/2015 11:29:08 am

Howard,

Not yet. As it turns out, just getting the boxes made has kept me plenty busy. However, after I've made all 52, I'll have some time to do posts like that. Thanks for reading.

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Willaim Latta
5/7/2016 04:26:03 pm

Wow. I have dabbled in box making over the last few years. Yours are something to which I aspire. Love them all.

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Dan Li
12/7/2016 01:28:17 pm

Love the subtlety embedded in all these details. Great job, Matt!

Could you share the overall dimensions of the box? From the top view I would guess it's something like 6 3/4" wide, 11" long X 3" tall. Not sure if my estimate is in the ballpark.

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    I love furniture design, and smart techniques. This blog is about both.

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